|
Located in the original Bank of America (née Bank of Italy) building on the corner of Broadway and Columbus, this summer 2007 arrival was a refreshing change from many of the North Beach Italian restaurants: ingredients are high quality, portions aren't gluttonous, and the espresso is pretty good too. In Italian, its name means "it's all here" (though it's pre-opening working title was Campo dei Fiori, a neighborhood in old Rome). At the door you'll be greeted by what looks like a typical Broadway strip club bouncer, but once inside you'll notice the beautiful mural that connects the two floors of dining -- plus a flat-screen TV for airing DVD movies and soccer matches. (Unlike the new owners of their former creation, the Steps of Rome, the staff here give their Italian soccer enthusiasm more than lip-service to impress the tourists.) Using a three-group La Spaziale at a long bar on the first floor, they serve espresso with a dark brown, textured crema. While the crema isn't very thick, it has its own 'microfoam' of sorts. Served properly short (consistently), it is also potent - with a richer, syrupy body and a pungent flavor. Served in Miscela d'Oro-logo ACF cups - with amateur latte art on milk-based drinks. Thanks to its Calabrian owner, this is one of the better espresso examples you'll find in North Beach.
|