Cotogna

Overall Rating: 7.750


Address: 490 Pacific Ave.
Cross Street(s): Montgomery St.
City, State ZIP: San Francisco, CA 94133
Neighborhood: Financial District
Phone: 415.775.8508
Hours: M-Th 11:30am-11pm; F 11:30am-12am; Sa 5:30pm-12am
Type of Establishment: Restaurant
Cafe Rating: 7.80
Barista: 8
Savvy: 8
Ambiance: 7
Presentation: 8
Consistency: Consistent
Espresso Machine: Synesso
Coffee Rating: 7.70
Aroma: 8
Body: 8
Brightness: 8
Crema: 7
Flavor: 8
Taster's Correction: -0.5
Size: L
Primary Taste: Warming
Coffee Beans: Roast Coffee Co.
Cup Manufacturer: Richard Ginori
Price: $4.00
Last Update: 05/12/2011
First Reviewed: 01/03/2011
Notes: None

Review
This more informal, osteria sister to the Quince restaurant next door (its name is Italian for "quince") offers a mighty fine, albeit somewhat pricey, Italian meal. Frequented by the old money, older Jackson Square set with an unusual wine menu where everything is priced at $40/bottle. There's a lot of wide glass, exposed woods, a wood-fired oven (with spare wood surrounding the entrance), dishtowels for napkins, and - surprisingly - a two-group Synesso behind the zinc bar. Cleverly, they employ a doserless Mazzer grinder, enforcing good practices among their staff so that they grind to order. But it's not like they would have to, as this restaurant seems to dedicate an employee to barista duties better than just about any other restaurant we've visited. Using coffee from Roast Coffee Co. in Emeryville, they pull shots with a richly colored, mottled, medium and lighter brown crema with irregular suspended bubbles. It's served a little high, but not bad for a doppio. It has a good, solid mouthfeel, with a roundness to its flavor - which is more focused in the pepper and cloves area. At $4, it's seriously expensive. But we like to reward good restaurant espresso service too, and there's a lot of good practices going on here. Milk frothing is a bit stiff, dry, and generous but OK.